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Sunbeam Toastermatic?

I have a 1960s Toastermatic (TA40) (similar to a TA35 or Sunbeam Vista), but the 'electric eye' appears to not be working. ie the toaster isn't automatically releasing when the toast is done. Hasn't been used for quite a while. A

Any suggestions?

Rod
March 2006
Fantastic write up from Toasty Von Sunbeam
Was it ever fixed?

Jeff
April 2013
Just took apart, cleaned, and reassembled my VT-40-1. Now, I can't seem to get the toast to release before burning, even on "light". I've been making minor and major adjustments to the screw on the side with no results --- does the bottom tensioning screw play into the release of the mechanism? I guess I'll try adjusting that next, but thought I might ask an experienced veteran!

Toasty Von Sunbeam
July 2009
How sad....
Without a doubt the best toaster ever made.
Having pulled a few apart and repaired over the years (only yesterday getting one going.) I can tell you a little about the operation.
Operation is both simple in design but wonderful in application. To get something to work so well without any fancy electronics...
Anyhow. The mains electricity is supplied to the elements by way of a double pole switch located behind the side cover. This switch is kept open by the slight spring action of a piece of bi metal. This is the business end of the shade control. The pretension on this can be adjusted using a flat bladed screwdriver. There is a hole located just below the handle furthest away from the power cord. Place toaster on table like normal. Squat down and look under the side handle. Now any adjustment that you do make should be very small indeed. To get an idea of just how small a movement is used over the whole shade setting, remove the bottom metal plate and hinged cover. You will see that as you move the shade control, there is a piece of metal that is moved between that adjustment screw and pretension. You can see that it is only about half a mm wider at one end than the other so large adjustments of this may result in burnt or raw toast.
Operation. When the toast pushes down on the trigger, It gives the bi-metal strip a poke This strip is rather wonderful as once poked it stays bent in the other direction. It allows the switch to close, heating starts, Another bi metal strip heats up and it releases its tension on the mechanism that holds the toast up. This mechanism also has an adjustment. Flat blade screw located under the flap in the very centre/bottom of the toaster. It is important that there is just enough tension here to keep the toast transport mechanism pressed fully up until both slices have touched their cradles. If you place a slice on the trigger bar and the transport mechanism starts to lower before the switch is triggered. It will miss the trigger and not turn on at all.
Once the toast has lowered, cooking begins. It matters not too much what you have placed in the toaster because the shade control reacts to colour rather than cooking time. It works like this. a piece of toast or crumpet needs greatly varying times to toast but once a colour level is obtained it radiates about the same amount of heat eg. an almost burnt slice of white bread and an almost burnt slice of crumpet have a very similar radiated temperature. The back of the bi-metal strip is doing its job and collecting the radiated heat from the now browning bread. eventually it gets hot enough to go "tink" and flick back to its starting position thus turning off the elements. The other bi-metal now cools, re tensioning the up spring action and now the toast rises.
So if the toast does not lower it means the elements do not come on for a couple of possible reasons. The element is broken, the switch has failed or is not activated, there is some other broken wire, perhaps the cord. Some cords used were rubber and are often perished by now.
As an after thought, I would like to get a few more functioning as gifts. Anyone have spares they don't want?

ACID Electrical Services HOBART Tasmania
July 2008
Hi, The toaster uses a spring with a special shape. It flicks back and forth depending on whether it is hot or cold. When it loses its spring it stops flicking to the off position (at least mine did). I am not sure whether replacement springs are available. I added a small piece of spring over the top of the old one at the bottom end (the weak end in my case) to give it enough spring to keep working. When you remove the housing holding the spring you can test the spring by pushing it in and out gently. It should click and stay in whichever position you push it. If it doesn't then it needs a little extra spring to help.

Alan Richardson
April 2006
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