how can i fix my peugeot 106 diesel front wheel bearing?

very good bit of advice well explained cheers

carl west
May 2008

As above but I've just done one without using a press - the bearing was fairly tight but ensure all the faces are clean, and apply a thin smearing of clean oil to lubricate and ease the assembly. The use the races of the old bearing to strike the new bearing - as they are obviously the same size they allow for easier fitting of the new bearing.
Also would like to add that the trackrod end can be removed without a splitting tool, although it is awkward and basically involves striking up onto the exposed stud - leave the nut flush with the end of the stud to protect the threads. Give the housing a few good smacks first to crack any seizure in the assembly.

Home Mechanic
April 2008

Agreed; this is the one of the jobs on the 106 which is real arse-pain and will require access to a hydraulic press.

It will take a mechanic around an hour to do the work at an average cost of £50+. Add to that, parts cost and VAT, your looking at a £100.
You can bearings from and car spares shop for £15 drop the offending strut yourself, remove the bearing outer race. A garage should not charge you more than £15 to press the new bearing in. Should cost around £30 - 40 notes if you do it yourself.

To remove the front strut, start by removing the Hub-nut and track rod end nut so that the front strut can rotate freely (requires a special tool to remove track-rod end).

Removing the brake caliper is a case of unscrewing the two large bolts holding it in place. Tie the calipers up inside the wheel arch, this will prevent the brake lines from possible damage. Dont forget the disc, want that off as well.

Undo the lower suspension arm (wishbone) by removing the retaining bolt at the ball joint on the bottom of the strut. Once removed and assuming the car is jacked up on the ground, applying weight with your foot on the wishbone will uncouple it from the strut.

Becarefull at this point not to drag the driveshaft out with the strut. Push the driveshaft in and pull the strut out nice n easy.

The Strut can then be completely removed by undoing the three nuts located at the top of the strut - under the bonnet.

Now; on looking at the lower part of the strut from the rear, i.e. where the driveshaft came into the bearing. Take out the retaining circlip or you will never get the bearing out.
Then take a large hammer and just tw*t the inner race hard, this should send the bearing gubbings flying out of the front along with the hub.
Removing the bearing inner race from the hub (to which, it will be firmly stuck!) is a major head ache, I use a three legged puller.

Now onto the fun bit; to remove the bearing inner race from the hub carrier. Clean up the packing grease from the inner race so its nice and shiny. Using a large brass/copper drift, bang out the inner race - remember that it will only go out one way which will become clear as you analyse the strut.

Do NOT, I repeat DO NOT! Use any kind of chisel as it will shatter the tips and take your eye out!!! Use a malleable drift which will form to the inner racing, thus giving you more of a purchase. Try not to hurt yourselves..

This is the way I do it, but obviously theres some people with lots more experience than me so if you can think of easier ways then let me know

The 1.5 TUD is an awesome little car! 55+ mpg and goes like the clappers.

GP
April 2008

These bearings are pressed in (and out) using a garage press of 10 tonnes or more so its best to let them do it. You can however save yourself a bit if you just take the hub to them. This involves removing the brake caliper, drive shaft nut, bottom ball joint, trackrod end and any anti roll bar connections. The hub is bolted to the spring strut on these, I believe so there's no need to remove that. The drive shaft shouldn't be removed, just held back as the hub is withdrawn.

John
January 2008