how to replace iron flex?

Joking apart, Russell Hobbs clearly don't want you to replace the flex in these irons and they state that in their instructions. When I smashed it to bits the flex is not in any kind of Junction block, but chrimped with plastic covers to the main iron wires. Trust me this is best left alone, save yourself some grief and buy another 'Better' Iron.

Mad Max
March 2021

The cable was so twisted it blew at the iron end of the flex and burnt my wife and the clothes she was ironing, really surprised it did not blow the fuse which is a concern, really dangerous. I decided to try to replace the flex as the iron still looked new, following some of the instructions given here and observation. After getting every screw I could see out I messed up all the plastic trying to open the tabs, in the end, I took to it with a hammer and a blow torch and buried it in next doors garden

Mad Max
March 2021

Brilliant!

Thanks guys. The answer from Mr. Loose, September 2016 was the most accurate for me.

Thanks for your input.

adgilcan
September 2016

There is a hidden screw underneath the water filler hatch that stops the top cover of the handle being removed.

Pop out the two steam buttons, very stiff.
Remove the water filler hatch, open slightly and pull directly up
Remove the screws from under the steam buttons and filler hatch
Starting at the back of the handle there are locking tabs to push inwards at 1", 2" and 4.25" from the back end of the handle

There is a 4th locking tab on each side by the steam selector dial.

Once the top is off its straightforward.

Flex can be joined with terminals instead of crimps as there is provision for this inside the case

Mr Loose
September 2016

Faced with the same problem, I 'Googled' and found this site.
Job done!
Thanks Guys!

PC
November 2014

Just an extension to what Peter and Paul said:- in my Russell Hobbs Steam Glide, there was an additional screw at the very front, underneath the spray nozzle.

David
June 2014

Remove the 2 3point screws from the bottom under the handle at flex end. Prise out the 2 spray and steam buttons from the top and remove the small phillips screw underneath. Carefully prise the top of the handle off by sliding a small screwdriver in at both sides to release the clips. Remove the 4 large screws inside at the flex end, and also remove the steam control from further forward. Remove the flex clamp and the 2 large screws from either side of the base. The Iron should now pull apart!! The flex is connected to the iron internal wiring by compression terminals, which you should be able to release with a pair of pliers to open them up. They can be re-used. Crimp on the new flex, feed it up through the bits of casing previously removed and up through the strain relief. Replace all parts and screws as you removed them. Took me about 1hr to complete, but cheaper than buying a new iron.

Peter Lambert
March 2014

You don't. I have tried to replace it but impossible to open and gain access to terminals. The instruction book states : "The product isn't user serviceable." The trouble is you don't find this out until you open the box and read the instruction book. I bought this product on 20.01.2013. and the cable is kinked and insulation showing already, 05.05.2013. I use the word cable as it is not FLEX but rigid. Hopeless, do not buy.

Red Admiral
May 2013

Here’s how I replaced the mains cable on a Russell Hobbs Steam Glide Professional iron!
I bought a cheap iron with the right size cable. (In this case a Morrison’s Steam Iron Model WMIWPURVS001 cost £5), and used it to practice getting the mains cable out…
1. There’s a screw, on the back of the cheap iron to be removed.
2. Next to remove the plastic steam button from the top of the iron; I pressed the spray button and using a pair of pliers pulled the plastic steam button straight out.
3. Then, the plastic spray button was pulled out with the pliers.
4. This exposed a screw holding the mid-front section of the handle cover which was removed.
5. Using a small knife, the top section of the handle was levered away by working around it.
6. Again using the small knife, the back section of the handle was eased away from the body of the iron.
There was just enough access to unscrew and remove the mains cable fixings, the cable itself and the 3-way connector.
On to the Russell Hobbs…
1. A special security screw bit is required for the screw on the back of the Russell Hobbs. I used a similar approach (to above), in order to gain access to the cable entry on the Russell Hobbs. The end of the Russell Hobbs cable is difficult to reach inside the iron and, it was crimped in place. But there was just enough room for me to do a fix.
2. Everything was put back safely in place ensuring no strains etc. and the cable clamped.
3. The Russell Hobbs was put back together for ready testing.
There was no buzzing, abnormal hot-spots or heating of the new mains cable. And, to be absolutely safe, I’ll get my mate to PAT Test my handy work for the price of a coffee!

Paul
May 2013

I don't know this iron - I used to replace the flex on irons years ago but for the last 15 - 20 years the only way I've been able to remove the existing flex in an iron has been to destroy the iron while taking it apart.

Which is to say that irons are no longer made to be repaired - they have become throw away items - I think it's a safety thing - they don't want Joe public doing a bit of DIY and electrocuting himself and his family and the resulting legal problems.

Peccavi
December 2012